Brunello di Montalcino Riserva
The 2002 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva is simply awesome. A deep yet translucent red, the wine explodes from the glass with a muscular, structured core of fruit that totally saturates the palate. The depth and richness of the fruit is simply breathtaking for its detail, clarity and inner perfume. Today the tannins are rather imposing, so extended cellaring seems wise. Despite the reputation of the vintage, there is not a hint of greenness or unripe tannin here, just a firm, classic Brunello that will thrill those who appreciate traditionally made wines. In 2002 Gianfranco Soldera crafted one of exactly three Italian reds that are profound; the others are Giacomo Conterno’s Barolo Monfortino and Miani’s Merlot. Anticipated maturity: 2017-2032. Gianfranco Soldera continue to make some of the most compelling wines in Montalcino. A visit to this estate is an absolute must for anyone who seeks to understand the essence of one of the world’s greatest wines. I don’t say that lightly. A recent bottle of Soldera’s 1998 Riserva more than held it own when tasted alongside some of the greatest wines of Bordeaux and Burgundy, in fact it showed far more complexity and sheer character than many of those far more celebrated bottles.